November 20, 2009 at 12:20pm Posted in MP Blog
We’ve got the new Greddy Turbo timers in stock now! They are called the new Greddy Turbo Timer SEPERATE Type. Or, otherwise known as the FULL AUTO TURBO TIMER (FATT).
The benefit of this new type of turbo timer is that it has a seperate controller face, and the bulk of the unit, the brain can be tucked away. This way you have many more possibilities/locations for installation!
Otherwise, this turbo timer is identical to the older version.
More information and link to product details:
http://www.modernperformance.com/greddy-turbo-timer-seperate-type-p-1986.html
November 19, 2009 at 2:12pm Posted in Tech
Because a SRT4 owner was asking about why he had green boots on his axles, and just for kicks, we decided to do a SRT4 stock axle versus DSS Driveshaft shop Stage 3 axle comparison.
This axle set has been redesigned to have a new inner CV with larger tripods and a new heat treat on the female inner spline. The kit also has a higher durometer boot to seal the axle grease into the tripod assemblies.
Close up of FACTORY SRT4 AXLE splines:
Closeup of DSS SRT4 Axle Splines
November 18, 2009 at 7:49pm Posted in MP Blog
A local customer of ours bought a second SRT4, and stopped by our shop today to buy some parts.
This is the car he was driving:
Now, the reason we are posting this, is because a customer of ours named Carlos Ostes, or Korterhorse (sp?) on Srtforums.com used to own a car with this EXACT color scheme, except that it was totalled out in an accident a few months back.
Now, we are wondering, is this Carlos’s old car, fixed up by some body shop and back on the road ? Or, a car with just the exact same color scheme ?
If this is Carlos’s old car, we’d love to do a follow up with pics of the car after the accident..
November 18, 2009 at 8:06am Posted in MP Blog
Just listed another 45 items on Ebay. Ending November 24th at 600 pm central time zone.
We’ve got lots of Neon, SRT4, Focus, Eclipse and more items all listed, starting at 1 penny with no reserve!
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/modern-one/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=
In part 11 of our SRT4 swap into a 1995 Neon we discussed ABS pump and mounting it into the Neon.
Here we have the SRT4 torque mount/Power steering bracket. Most Neon owners that do a SRT4 swap just use the 2.4 Stratus engine mount swap adapter and eliminate this bracket altogether. The problem with doing that, is that you cant use a upper torque mount to secure the engine in place, nor will you have power steering if you eliminate this bracket.
So, we have taken the nut that goes on the inside of the bracket, and we have measured and found that the point in which we could use our Neon passenger side mount and bolt along with this bracket.
The nut that our passenger side motor mount bolt will attach onto fits perfectly into the webbing on the backside of the SRT4 power steering/torque mount brace.
November 16, 2009 at 8:11am Posted in MP Blog
In part 10 we discussed electrical wiring of our SRT4 swapped 1995 Neon.
Next up is installing the ABS pump. The engine bay in the SRT4 had a lot of room, but because we have a LOT less room in the Neon we have to modify the bracket to be able to mount the ABS pump onto the frame. The rusty piece of steel welded onto the right side of the bracket is the piece we added on.
Here, we are cutting away a lot of the ABS pump mounting bracket because all we need are the two mounting points for the ABS pump.
This is what our custom bracket looks like after a lot of cutting, and welding.
Here we have the ABS pump with our special bracket mounted to the frame.
Here we have the ABS Pump mounted, and the SRT4 brake lines are attached to the ABS pump.
November 13, 2009 at 8:10am Posted in MP Blog
In part 9 of our SRT4 swap we showed the differences in fuel tanks between the Neon and the SRT4.
Next up, removing the Neon engine bay harness and installing the SRT4 engine bay harness. Here we have the 95 Neon harness.
SRT4 engine bay harness
Installing the SRT4 fuse box/Power distribution center into the Neon. Because this mounting tab hung over the railing, it wasnt needed and we could cut it off.
In our previous installment of our SRT4 swap series we showed you the differences between a lot of Neon and SRT4 components.
Now onto the fuel tank. I wanted to use the SRT4 fuel tank, SRT4 fuel pump, and SRT4 fuel lines. The tanks are very similar, except the angle of the fuel inlet, and the SRT4 straps tie down in a slightly different spot. Here we have the SRT4 fuel tank on top, and the Neon fuel tank on bottom.
Neon fuel tank on top, SRT4 fuel tank on bottom.
Because the SRT4 fuel tank is larger, the straps wouldnt tie down to the Neon.
So, we have taken some 1/4 inch steel plate, drilled it, and used these to extend out the mounting points for the fuel tank straps.
Heres the tank installed with the 1/4 inch plate along with a large spacer.
Now, the angle of the fuel filler necks are different between both cars so we eventually install a SRT4 fuel filler neck to use with the SRT4 fuel tank. This photo shows the Neon fuel filler neck and the SRT4 fuel tank. Notice the difference in angles on the inlet.
November 11, 2009 at 7:01pm Posted in Tech
To further demonstrate the 2.4 Motor swap MPx Power Steering bracket for 1995-1999 Neons, we made a video and posted it on Youtube.
Check it out here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RHUkk7c2HvY
More information on the MPx ps bracket here:
http://www.modernperformance.com/motor-swap-power-steering-bracket-p-1984.html
November 10, 2009 at 8:34am Posted in Tech
Ok guys, the reason we are posting this, is due to a customer ordering some custom pistons and screwing up the measurements. Now we have a tricky situation where a customer told us the measurements of what he wanted, we had made with JE and now we have a set of custom non usable pistons! So, heres some tech on piston/bore specs..
For the record - when pistons are refererred to as overbore, the measurements are typically in inches, not millimeters.
Stock bore size of a 03-05 SRT4 : 3.445 inches.
When a piston is 20 thousandths overbore, that means, that the piston would be sized roughly 3.465 inches instead of 3.445.
I hope this bit of information helps someone out there!
November 9, 2009 at 8:00am Posted in MP Blog
Today I did something that very few 1995-1999 Dodge Neon owners have ever done. I took a Diablosport Predator, connected it to my OBD2 port on my 1995 Neon and flashed a new performance program to the pcm within 3 minutes.
Now, before all of you 1995-1999 Neon owners call us and ask where you can buy this item, realize that this car is a full SRT4 swap car, and it has a SRT4 pcm, wiring harness, and obd2 port on a car that typically came with obd1 and could not be flashed.
Here are some pictures of the flashing process.
Results :
Went from 13-14 psi to 15-16 psi of boost
Boost builds up MUCH faster now
Went from 10.5:1 air fuel ratio in 4th gear to 12.0:1 air fuel ratio in 4th gear. (Car was reprogrammed to run leaner for more power with predator flash!)
Further benefit of the Predator flasher:
Can adjust idle
Can adjust when fans turn on and off
Can adjust timing
Can adjust fuel
Can adjust boost
Can adjust TONS more parameters. Its absolutely amazing.
More details here:
http://www.modernperformance.com/diablosport-predator-tuner-with-update-0305-srt4-p-1961.html
In part 7 of our SRT4 swap series we discussed clutch pedal modifications that had to be made to put SRT4 clutch pedal assemblies into a Neon.
Comparison of expansion valves. The SRT4 expansion valve is on top of the strut mount. They are identical except the electrical connection is on the top instead of on the bottom (Neon).
SRT4 AC lines and dryer is installed into the Neon, as you can see the angles of the AC lines are offset further away from the strut mount.
Neon AC lines and dryer.
Rear SRT4 hubs, rotors and calipers are swapped onto the rear.
Pedal assemblies are reinstalled.
We sell stock heat range, as well as colder range plugs for several different vehicles and we get asked This explanation is from our friends over at NGK.
A spark plug’s heat range has no relationship to the actual voltage transferred through the spark plug. Rather, the heat range is a measure of the spark plug’s ability to remove heat from the combustion chamber. The heat range measurement is determined by several factors; the length of the ceramic center insulator nose and its’ ability to absorb and transfer combustion heat, the material composition of the insulator and center electrode material.
The insulator nose length is the distance from the firing tip of the insulator to the point where insulator meets the metal shell. Since the insulator tip is the hottest part of the spark plug, the tip temperature is a primary factor in pre-ignition and fouling. Whether the spark plugs are fitted in a lawnmower, boat, or a race car, the spark plug tip temperature must remain between 500C-850°C. If the tip temperature is lower than 500°C, the insulator area surrounding the center electrode will not be hot enough to burn off carbon and combustion chamber deposits. These accumulated deposits can result in spark plug fouling leading to misfire. If the tip temperature is higher than 850°C the spark plug will overheat which may cause the ceramic around the center electrode to blister and the electrodes to melt. This may lead to pre-ignition/detonation and expensive engine damage. In identical spark plug types, the difference from one heat range to the next is the ability to remove approximately 70°C to 100°C from the combustion chamber. A projected style spark plug firing tip temperature is increased by 10°C to 20°C.
November 5, 2009 at 8:00am Posted in MP Blog
Anytime you are installing a new component like a new larger turbo on your 03-05 Dodge SRT4, or a new header on your 95-05 Neon, you should consider installing ARP Exhaust studs.
Why ? Well, each time you remove and reinstall a screw into the head of your engine, you increase the chances of stripping out the threads, and furthermore the ARP studs are stronger! The ARP studs, because they are forged, can handle a lot more weight than your typical bolt!
The way these work, is you thread the studs into the head just like a normal exhaust bolt. You use a allen key to thread the stud into place as the stud has a allen key receptacle on the end of it. After tightening down the stud, you then put the new component onto the stud, and then torque down the nut onto the stud.
Heres a photo of a few of the ARP studs threaded into a head.
Tags: 03-05 Dodge SRT-4, 2.4 swap, 95-99 Dodge Neon, 98 ACR, 98 Neon, Dodge SRT4, First gen Neon, Neon SRT-4, Neon SRT4, Plymouth Neon, SRT4 engine swap
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